Do I have to remove the existing Lift-O-Matik cable?
Only the cable end outside the tractor is detached and connected to the kit. The tractor-side connection, the valve and the hydraulic line stay untouched.
Only the end of the cable that sits outside the tractor is detached and connected to the kit's cable entry socket. The original connection on the tractor side is never removed; nothing is touched on the inner side of the mechanism, on the valve or on the hydraulic line. The cable itself is not replaced either — the kit takes over the existing cable as it stands.
What is touched and what is not
| Part | Treatment |
|---|---|
| The free end of the cable outside the tractor | Detached, connected to the kit's cable entry socket |
| The cable's connection on the mechanism side | Left exactly as it is |
| The cable and its sheath | Not replaced; no cable comes with the kit |
| Valve, hydraulic line, three-point hitch | No intervention at all |
That is why, whether the kit is an LFT20 or an LFT54, once it is removed the tractor can be returned completely to its previous state in a few minutes. The practical value of designing it this way shows in three places: because the hydraulic line is never opened there is no risk of leakage or oil contamination, the valve's own setting and warranty are unaffected, and the vehicle can be restored to its original state for a second-hand sale.
Look at the condition of the cable before connecting
- Cable health. If the cable is broken, its strands have opened up or it is rusted, renew the cable first; the kit does not make up for that.
- Freedom of the sheath. Make sure the cable moves inside the sheath without binding. A jammed cable strains the motor on the LFT20; on the LFT54 the protection with current and position sensors may cut in and stop the movement.
- Correct alignment. Position the kit in line with the cable. A pull at an angle creates friction in the sheath and increases the force required.
- Slack setting. A slight slack has to remain in the cable; if pre-tension is applied, the mechanism stays partly triggered all the time.
Cases where the cable has to be renewed before it is detached
If any one of the following signs is present, replace the cable before connecting it to the kit. A cable whose strands have splayed out, with broken wires at the end, deteriorates faster under the kit's regular pulling. A route with a crushed sheath, or bent through a sharp turn, spends part of the force produced on friction. On cables that have been in use a long time, stretch is seen as well; the trigger travel then shifts and the cable itself upsets the setting. An installation made without putting these right comes back later as the complaint "the motor turns but the lever does not pull".
If you are going to replace the cable, reverse the order: fit the new cable first and verify that the mechanism works correctly by hand, then connect the kit. Changing the cable with the kit fitted means measuring the trigger travel again and readjusting the connection end; doing two jobs at once makes fault-finding harder.
What to do in practice
After connecting, pull the cable by hand without running the motor and measure the distance at which the mechanism triggers. The LFT20 pulls 60 mm and the LFT54 50 mm; the trigger point has to stay within that value. If the measurement is above the limit, rather than shortening the connection end, first put right the freedom of the cable inside its sheath and the alignment of the kit with the cable — what usually enlarges the distance is friction and angle. Then power the kit up and try a full raise-and-lower cycle under load, watching that the cable does not catch on the return movement; when the lever is released it should sit back exactly in its old position. Bearing in mind that you may take it off one day, do not throw the original connection parts away; when the kit is removed, the outer end of the cable goes straight back where it was.
The full topic: What is Lift-O-Matic and how does it work?