Where on the tractor should I mount the lift retrofit kit?
Fix the kit at the point closest to the outer end of the Lift-O-Matik cable, in line with it, cable entry downwards, away from heat and standing water.
Fix the main unit at the point closest to the outer end of the existing Lift-O-Matik cable, in line with the cable and with the cable entry facing downwards. Let the surface be flat and rigid; stay away from exhaust heat, from the mud the wheel throws up and from hollows where water collects. The switch in the cab goes where the hand reaches it in the seated position without looking, but where it cannot be pressed by accident.
Which criterion comes first when choosing the location
Apply the criteria in the following order; the first item comes before all the others.
- Cable alignment. The pull direction has to match the exit angle of the cable sheath. Mounting at an angle creates friction in the sheath and increases the force the motor has to pull. The cable entry socket on the body must face the direction the cable comes from.
- Heat. Stay away from the exhaust manifold and the turbo area; engine-bay temperature increases wire resistance noticeably.
- Water. The LFT20's IP66 body withstands powerful water jets, but continuous immersion is out of scope. Choose the location knowing what IP66 covers; do not mount it in hollows where water collects.
- Vibration. Bolt it to a section or a chassis member where possible, not to a sheet panel; use anti-vibration mounts if needed.
- Access. You have to be able to reach the enclosure, the cable connection and the fuse for servicing.
Before you mark the spot, measure that the body will fit; on top of the dimensions, allow for the bend radius of the cable and the cable exit as well.
| Kit | Clear volume to allow | Additional allowance |
|---|---|---|
| LFT20 | 170 x 130 x 55 mm | Cable bend and cable exit |
| LFT54 | 155 x 175 x 70 mm | Cable bend and cable exit |
Cable routing and switch position
Do not run the cables over sharp sheet-metal edges; use rubber grommets at pass-throughs and leave a drip loop before entering the box, so that water cannot travel along the cable into the body. The cross-section of the supply line is determined by the distance to be run; working out the cross-section of the supply cable is a separate topic, and the cable length has to be planned accordingly when choosing the mounting location. Place the switch outside the range of movement of the lever and the other controls, but on a surface the operator can reach out of habit.
Do not mount it here
- On surfaces facing the exhaust manifold, the turbo or the silencer.
- In positions at an angle to the line of the cable, bending the cable inside its sheath.
- On thin sheet-metal fender panels; vibration tires both the bolt and the sheet there.
- In the area where the wheel throws mud and stones, or on surfaces the gun aims at directly during pressure washing.
- Under or behind covers that have to be removed for servicing.
What to do in practice
Before drilling any holes, hold the kit by hand at the place you have chosen, connect the cable, and run the switch cable and the supply line out freely. If the cable is not at an angle and the cables are not left taut, the location is right. Running the kit on the bench before installation to see its direction and its movement shortens the job; the bench test before installing the LFT20 is there for exactly that. Once you have fixed it, check the bolts once more at the end of the first day; on a vehicle that vibrates, the first loosening usually comes early.
The full topic: Converting a tractor hydraulic lever to electronic control