The remote control does not work, what should I check and in what order?
Follow the order from the power source backwards: the remote control's charge/battery state, the receiver's supply and fuse, the antenna connection, whether the pairing has been retained, whether the relay output pulls in, the contactor coil circuit and the limit switches. Determining whether the relay pulls in, by ear or by measurement, cuts the fault in half.
Proceed systematically; the most common mistake is swapping parts at random.
- Remote control power: on the ST100/ST200 the Li-Po charge state, on the SF100/SF200 that the 3×AAA cells are fresh and fitted the right way round.
- Receiver supply: measure the voltage at the receiver terminal. The SF100 and ST100 receivers are supplied with 12/24V DC or 220V AC; verify the supply value of your own set from the product page and the manual. Check the supply fuse.
- Antenna: connector tightness, a broken/crushed cable, the antenna being outside the panel in a vertical position.
- The critical split — does the relay pull in? When the button is pressed, listen for the relay in the receiver clicking, or measure its contact.
- If it does not pull in, the problem is on the remote-to-receiver link: the pairing may have been lost, repeat the learning procedure in the user manual; assess the range and interference conditions.
- If it pulls in but the machine does not move, the problem is in the power circuit: contactor coil, limit switch NC contacts, thermal overload relay, phase loss, motor connection.
- Try a spare remote control. A second remote control taught to the same receiver localises the fault within seconds.
When taking measurements, make sure that machine movement is safe and, if required, that the load has been lowered.
The full topic: Wireless Crane Remote Control Selection Guide